The iconic Jubilee bracelet is probably the most famous bracelet in the entire watchmaking industry. It is one of the few bracelet models whose name is probably mentioned more often than its watch head. It takes its name from the first release of the fake Rolex Datejust in 1945 – the brand’s 40th anniversary in 1905.
The Jubilee bracelet features a “five-link” construction. It consists of two wider, vertically brushed links flanked by three more elaborate polished links running along the center of the bracelet. In the Rolesor model, the middle link is presented in a different color when 18-carat yellow gold or Everose gold is used.
The Rolex Datejust 36 has had several different generations of bracelets, each new generation being stronger and heavier than its predecessor. Newer versions of the Datejust bracelet will be accompanied by a noticeable amount of weight. These bracelets feature fully solid side and center chains, solid end chains and a sturdy mechanical clasp. This design, combined with the slightly wider, highly polished lugs, gives the modern Datejust a greater presence on the wrist and an overall more modern look and feel.
Both the Oyster and Jubilee straps on the current models are also equipped with a clasp with Rolex’s innovative Easylink extension system. This instantly extends the length of the bracelet by 5 mm without the use of any tools. As the wrist fluctuates throughout the day, the Easylink extension system can be activated instantly. This convenient innovation allows owners of Datejust models to change the length of the bracelet to achieve a perfect fit.
If you’d like to step back in time, why not explore the early Ref. 6305 collections, which saw some improvements. The 6305 Ref. has a patina-friendly dial, elegantly shaped hour markers, and a fairly select number of “red date” models that offer great value for money.
These replica watches are not common, and rarely appear compared to more modern reference watches. When they do appear, you will pay twice the price of a Datejust 16013 in good condition. That’s the price you pay for rarity and a solid gold case, but few would argue that it’s not worth it. For some, it was the end of the classic Datejust era and the beginning of Rolex’s journey toward alchemical excellence, as the brand abandoned its humble roots in favor of material and mechanical perfection, perhaps at the expense of the glamour that is the hallmark of many of today’s highly sought-after vintage pieces.